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Woodmont Doors Blum Hinge Boring Pattern

Concealed Hinge Cabinet Door Boring information
Having your doors bored for concealed hinges is an option. You do not have to have it done. But if you are planning on using hidden hinges, and the boring pattern that Woodmont uses will work for you, best to have them bore the holes for you.

Let's elaborate. You have two basic hinge methods that are the most popular. One is called semi-concealed. These are hinges where you see part of the hinge when the door is closed. The decorative part, usually the barrel of the hinge, or the shapely nicely finished face mount portion of the hinge. Also referred to as a decorative hinge. Semi-concealed hinges generally allow you a variable overly on a face frame mount. Meaning, you can mount them just about anywhere. You can shift doors left and right, or up and down, as long as they are large enough to still cover your openings. Semi-concealed hinges are very easy to work with, and they generally just screw to the back of the door.

Then we have concealed hinges. You do not see any part of the hinge when the door is closed. When open, you will see the hinge cup fitted into the back of the door, and then the mounting plate portion of the hinge attached to the edge of a face frame or side wall of your cabinet box. Concealed hinges from the manufacturers whom make them seem to agree on a 35mm dia. hinge cup hole. This is pretty univeral. There are some that are 40mm which are beefier hinges. And there are some specialty hinges in 26mm for glass. For cabinet doors, we will focus on the 35mm concealed hinge cup bore.

The two pictures just below are Woodmont's hinge boring diagram, and our picture of the Blum Compact 38N concealed face frame mount hinge.
Woodmont Doors hinge boring diagram
In the diagram, it has a lot of arrows and measurements. The diagram is trying to tell you everything all at once. Here is the low down.

You have a choice of the B1 boring method: 35mm hole with two 8mm holes for dowels. Press-in hinge.
Or the B2 boring method: 35mm hole with two small pilot holes in which your screws will dig into. Screw on hinge.
What's the difference? Look at our hinge picture, we show one face up, and then the reverse side. On the bottom side of that 35mm hinge cup and flange, see those two milky plastic pieces with the grooves in them. Those are the dowels. Those are what push into the two 8mm holes, either by machine, or you with a rubber mallet. This is what a press-in hinge is. The 35mm cup can fall into the back of the door easily, but the two 8mm dowels are meant to push in hard and hold firmly. This is supposedly a time saving method to keep from having to screw every hinge into the back of the door. In a high production facility that inserts hinges, it saves time. In the field, jury is still out. Banging each hinge in with a rubber mallet can be a bit frustrating on a larger kitchen.

But look at that same hinge again. If you take those two dowels off, then the hinge is a screw on hinge. Where you just use two deep thread wood screws to hold the hinge into the back of the door. But the screws need wood to bite into. If the 8mm holes are drilled, those are too big. So with the B2 boring method, you have just the pilot holes to start the screws. (And if you have press-in hinges and need to remove the dowels, you squeeze the dowel with a pair of channel locks and unscrew the screw from the other side. They come right off.)

The hinge boring pattern in the diagram is the Blum hinge boring pattern. Blum hinges and other brands that follow this pattern will like up for the dowel or pilot holes.

Important: the edge distance, as noted by 3/32" or 2.4mm in the bottom left of the diagram is the ONLY EDGE DISTANCE Woodmont will bore the doors at. This is IDEAL for a face frame mount hinge for a 1/2" overlay, which is what 80% of everyone does. But if you have frameless cabinets and need a greater overlay, you may have to bore the doors yourself.

The rest of the diagram is just informing you that for really short doors from 7 to 9" tall, if bored, will have the holes at 2-1/4" on center. Doors that are 9-1/16" or taller, which will be just about all of them, will be bored at 3" on center. 3" on center or 3" OC means from the top and bottom edges of the door to the center of the 35mm hole is 3".

Special boring heights: Say you need your hinges 4" OC from top and bottom. Or 4" OC on top, and 5-13/16" OC from bottom. Entries like this can be noted on the order form. So the placement of the hinge cup holes up and down, can be altered. But the edge distance of 3/32" is not negotiable.
The above is the Blum Compact 38N hinge, for a 1/2" overlay. Blum does make the 38N in several overlay choices, but the hinges that come from Woodmont will be the 1/2" overlay. This is pretty much the only hinge that they offer, a 1/2" overlay, face frame mount only, and press-in with dowels attached. This is what you get from them. If you click on the picture, or select this hinge page link, you will see that we offer a few other hinges. We will have the Blum Compact 33 also. And some frameless Blum hinges. The 40mm Salice hinges on that page will NOT fit in a 35mm hinge cup hole. Those are specialty hinges that pertain to the flipper door slides that we offer.

The Compact 38N hinge can be supplied from us, or from Woodmont directly with your door order where you ask for them. So when on the quoation or order form, either on-line form or fax form, when you are asking for hinge boring, here are some abbreviations to keep in mind, and to use.

B1 boring = 35mm hinge cup hole with two 8mm dowel holes for press-in hinges.
B1WH = B1 bore With Hinges. Thus the press-in hinges shown above come with the boring (but not pushed into the doors, you will do that afterward).
B2 boring = 35mm hinge cup hole with two pilot holes for wood screws. No hinges, just boring. (If you need hinges, we can supply them.)

BL = bore left (needed for the Charleston Arch door)
BR = bore right (needed for the Charleston Arch door)
Also, important to note BL or BR if you have chosen to change the OC measurement from top and bottom, and the measurements are not identical. If both top and bottom are the same, you can bore left or right with a square top door and just flip it one way or the other. But if OC from top is different from OC from bottom, you defined a distinct top to that door.

For most door designs with no special hole placements, you will just note B1, B1WH, or B2 for the hinge boring. Or leave blank for no boring.
If you are uncertain about hinge boring and have questions, please let us know.
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