Hera Lighting OLD blade-style SlimLite fluorescent under counter lights

And there are now SlimLite XL-LED and ELite-LED lights available too.


Hera Lighting older blade style SlimLite - older slimline collectionIf the ends of your SlimLites and connectors look like this picture, you have the blade style SlimLites. Production on these stopped around 1999. Only the XL Pin connector style has been produced since then. We will offer some advice on this page about integrating the XL pin style with your old blade style lights if you have the need to replace some lights. In many cases, it is sometimes easier to replace power cords and connecting cables and just upgrade to the XL pin style lights. Only the 10", 13", and 20" T4 size SlimLites were made as blade style. All the T5 SlimLites were always made as the Pin Connector style. You will not find any of those sizes with these blade ends on them. These lights are quite commonly referred to as DL07, DL10, & DL18. Those code numbers are referring to the wattage of the bulbs, not the length, or length of the bulbs. The 7, 10, and 18 watt bulbs used in the old blade style lights are still the same bulbs used in the Pin connector style lights. We stock the replacement bulbs in abundance for quick shipments.

Enough of the Hera SlimLite history lesson. Onward to helping you.

New as of July, 2014:
Hera has introduced a quick fix adapter to attach one of the newer XL/Pin style T4 SlimLites in with a string of your older blade style T4 lights. Here are 3 pictures showing the HER-BP/SDC adapter and an explanation of how it works.

Hera BP/SDC SlimLite adapter | Hera BP/SDC old SlimLite to new SlimLite connector

Old blade style Hera SlimLite adapter to new SlimLite Pin styleIf you choose to use this adapter, it is a one-way connection. The first picture shows a top view, you can see the old blade style connecting port clearly. The second picture shows the underside. The two round holes push down over the two pins on the "IN" end of the Pin style T4 SlimLite. The third picture shows a side view of the HER-BP/SDC.

By "one-way connection" we mean that this adapter works only on the "IN" side of the newer T4 SlimLites. They have a distinct in and out end to them. As you can see by the pictures in green just next down on this page. So to use this adapter, you will need to relocate the replacement Pin Style SlimLite to the end of your current light run if you have multiple lights in the string of lights. Easy enough to do, un-clip it from its mounting clips, and shift lights around.

Now this adapter pushes down on the end of the new SlimLite, but the blade style port connected to it is still open. You will need one of your OLD connecting cables or OLD direct connector to attach to it and the preceding OLD light in your string of lights. So do not throw away any of your old connecting cables or direct connectors.

This adapter is primarily for replacing lights while still keeping some of your old lights. If replacing all lights, you will of course replace all connectors, power cords, etc. If you are replacing more than one light, you will still locate all the new lights toward the end of your power string. Then use NEW connecting cables or direct connectors to go from the first replaced new light to the next.

So with this connector, you can mix old and new lights. Just keep in mind that the new lights need to be shifted to the end of your run in multiple light runs. And you will need to retain at least one of your old connecting cables or direct connectors to make the connection to the blade style port on this connector.
Part # HER-BP/SDC @ $3.47 each. We are keeping them in stock.


nof="te"Hera SlimLite XL pin connector fluorescent light

nof="te"Hera SlimLite XL pin connector fluorescent lights

As shown in the two pictures directly above, the XL pin connector style SlimLites have two gold pins on one end and two round sockets on the other. Distinct in and out ends for connecting them in series. The old blade style SlimLites have squared off kind of connecting ends, and both are identical. This is how you tell the lights apart. There are no adapters or cables to bridge the old to the new. The lights are not interchangeable with each other.

The connecting cables push down on the lights from the top, not in from the ends. If you have had lights installed for years and never removed the cables, which is true in almost all cases, they can stick and be very stubborn about lifting off the ends. You kind of have to pinch them firmly and hold the light down by its chassis, not pushing on top of the FRAGILE glass bulb, and attempt to wiggle them off. Years of electricity and heat passing through them can pretty much glue them to the lights. This is why we noted, sometimes upgrading your lights is easier.

This is true of the direct connectors and power cords too. Sometimes you have to convince them to let loose of their hold on the lights.

The XL connecting cable have one end with two female sockets and the other end with two gold pins. They are directional. And thus follow the in and out ends on the lights. Power cords have two female sockets. Thus the first light in a series always starts out by capping the two gold pins sticking up. Old blade style connecting cables and direct connectors are not directional, their connections are the same on both ends, as are the lights. See the next picture.

Hera Lighting SlimLite connecting cables

(The below was our previous advice on how to adapt old to new lights. You can still do this, but do take note of the HER-BP/SDC info we added higher up on this page.)

And now, what you can to to integrate new lights in with your old. If your old blade style system has multiple lights fed from the same power cord, and then the lights are connected to each other via connecting cables, you are in luck. You can order a new light, you can order a SCC6/XL connecting cable to go with it. Then you can splice one of your old cables with the new cable and create a jumper. Make sure you seal the splice properly and not leave bare wire exposed or create any kind of fire hazard. There is the proper way to do it, and the half-fast way. We would suggest the proper way, or just replace all your lights with the XL lights and not worry about splicing. Anyhow, creating a jumper will allow you to hook a new light in with a series of old lights. Easiest to position it to the end of your string of lights. If just one light on your string, replace it and the power cord. Why go through all the work.

But now, if your lights are connected via direct connectors, your screwed.
There is no adapter or way to create one. At least not safely. You would have to replace several lights. We can only offer a solution when lights are spaced apart with connecting cables. Picture directly below.

old blade style slimlites from Hera Lighting

SlimLite Bulbs have not changed.
Hera slimlite replacement bulbs - hera slimline
Shown above are the 18 watt (DL18), 10 watt (DL10), and 7 watt (DL07) SlimLite bulbs.
White caps are removable if your bulbs are just a spec too long.
They are spacer caps only, they have nothing to do with insulating the ends.
Bulb part numbers and pricing are shown on our Hera replacement parts page.

As technology progresses, things change. The SlimLite is an awesome light and throws a ton of light. We use them in several areas of our office. Hera has created an LED version of the SlimLite, called SlimLite XL-LED. It uses all the same connecting cables, power cords, switches, and hardwire boxes. The size is the T5 tube size and it comes in 12", 23", 34", and 46" lengths. They can connect end to end, or be spaced apart as the Fluorescent version of the light can be. The SlimLite XL-LED tubes are rated for 50,000 hour lamp life. They are more expensive as all high quality LED lights are. Your expense is up front, your savings comes over time.

We are happy to offer the Hera Lighting line of products. We have over 16 years of experience with Hera Lighting. We remember the KH12, Eco-Strip, and Eco-Track lights from the 90's. But now LED is starting to dominate the market. And for a good reason. An LED light using 1 to 3 watts of power will be barely noticeable on your electric bill. Your halogen floor lamp with a 300 watt bulb in the room will dry the humidity out of the room, jack up your AC bill, and make the electric company richer. We invite you to explore the various LED options from Hera. Links are directly below. Some LED lights are economical, and those made entirely in German do carry a stiff price.

Eclectic-ware is offering modern day under cabinet lighting solutions.

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